San Polino, Brunello Di Montalcino, DOCG, Tuscany, Italy, 2019

Producer Profile

There is a small 'nirvana' northwest of Montalcino, where Luigi Fabbro and Katia Nussbaum founded San Polino nearly 30 years ago.

Using Luigi's scientific experience of mapping the Amazon rainforest they decided to try their hands at "creating wines as complete reflections of the biodiversity of their terroir" Katia explains. This tiny estate of only 4 hectares now produces luscious and balanced wines farmed bio-dynamically by this energetic couple who, it is clear, pour all their heart and energies into these sublime wines. Praised by critics and peers they have been described as having "an incredible clarity and pureness of fruit that is unequalled in the region".

Viticulture

Vineyards are to the north-east of Montalcino at 300m altitude where a meandering stream runs through it attracting much wildlife. Worked by hand, organically and biodynamically, the canopy is well-managed to produce healthy, juicy, thick-skinned grapes.

Winemaking

Harvested early in October, there is a cold 3-day maceration, followed by a spontaneous fermentation on native yeasts in 35hl tronic oak barrels, 45 day maceration in total then the skins are pressed, followed by 1 month spontaneous malolactic fermentation. 20 days lees ageing. To finish the wine it spends 5 years ageing in large oak casks before bottling by hand in the winery.

Oak Ageing

Time: 5 Years
Type: Slovakian and French 25hl - 38 hl
% wine oaked: 100
% new oak: 5

Tasting Note

This is an elegant, well structured wine, from the nose of dark fruit, with plums, blackcurrent, tobacco, spices, with hints of black pepper, liquorice, then violet, and orange zest, the strong minerality of earth and flint, to the freshness of the mouth, the full yet unbelievably smooth tannins and long, long finish. Time has worked its magic and now eminently satisfying, totally and deliciously drinkeable.

Food Matching

Roasted or grilled vegatables, meat, mushrooms and legumes, full-bodied cheeses.

Awards

Jancis Robinson 17.5 Points
Dark ruby with bricky rim. Deep, alluring cherry nose with exotic spice hints. Sinewy and long with juicy cherry fruit that just starts to unfurl and fine-ground, coating tannins. Great balance but still needs to settle, so wait. 17.5 Points, JR 2024.
James Suckling 96 Points
Intense aromas of black cherries, black truffle, orange peel and Indian spices. The palate is full yet reserved, with very fine tannins that fly linear and deep in the wine. Caressing texture. Reserved at the end. A real beauty. From organically grown grapes. 96 Points, JS, 2024.
Decanter 93 Points
From San Polino’s holdings in the northeast on loamy clay soil. Exuberantly youthful and becoming, the 2019 rings out with violet and oily balsamic herbs. It gives a midweight impression – yet is packed with brambly fruit. An orange peel flourish is heightened by zesty acidity. And as this opens, savoury iron depths are revealed. Promising. Solid, clayey tannins clamp down on the finish.