2023 Burgundy Vintage Insights
Following their recent whirlwind trip to Burgundy, our sales director Ned Llewelyn shares his views on the 2023 vintage, while Matt Wilkin MS introduces a few of the renowned producers soon to feature in our exclusive En Primeur offer.
This inaugural blended "Alliance Wine / H2Vin Burgundy En Primeur Offer" will include over 300 wines from these and many more exceptional Burgundy producers. To register your interest in advance of the release, please contact Ned and Matt.
The 2023 Burgundy Vintage: Ned Llewellyn, Sales Director – Off Trade
“If the 2023 vintage tells us anything, it’s that reality often defies our expectations. Visiting 28 of Burgundy’s finest cellars in five days, we were inspired by the quality of the wines we were tasting.
Christian Honorez, Matt Wilkin MS, Fionnuala Synott and I were delighted to find wines with fruit and ripeness aplenty, with the finest of these also possessing precise mineral tension and freshness in abundance. Of course, it was a mixed story across the dozens of villages we tasted from, but in most cases, these wonderful vignerons found a way to get the best from their vines; could the wise old vines be adapting to the balmier weather patterns we have seen in recent vintages?
Despite having waves of hotter and cooler weather, there's no hiding from the fact that the average temperature across the 2023 growing season was higher than in recent years due to increased nighttime temperatures and an incredibly hot harvest period. However, those with older vines, higher altitudes, east or west-facing sites, exposed vineyards with cooling breezes, and those that timed the harvest to ensure full phenolic ripeness fared best.
Although no two vintages are the same, many winemakers compared 2023 to more 'classic' vintages such as 2021, 2017 and 2009. This was not something we necessarily expected, but upon tasting, the elegance, vitality, and supple tannins of the finest wines proved that this cohort of exceptional producers deserves a place in some of the finest cellars in the country.
These wines will age well, of course, especially those with heightened acidity, but will be accessible early and reward impatience! Leave the 2022s in the cellar for as long as you dare, and enjoy the 2023s while you wait."
Producer Spotlights: Matt Wilkin MS, Director of Prestige Sales
- Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils
“Located between Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, in Pernand Vergelesses, Burgundy, Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils develop great wines located around the prestigious hill of Corton.
This historic family estate was created in 1765. Vincent, who is in charge today, produces modern-style wines, well-vinified and representative of their terroir. With several years of cellaring the wines open up nicely whilst the prices across the cuvées remain very reasonable indeed. In short, an increasingly reliable address for accessible fine red and white Burgundy wines.
As we wrapped up the tasting, Vincent Rapet pulled out a rare savvy bottle of 1978 1er Cru ‘Les Vergelesses’, which gave an impressive expression of what fine elegance and charm this superb terroir brings!”
- Jean-Phillipe Fichet
“The Phoenix continues to rise from the ashes, as does the stalwart Jean-Philippe Fichet following the devastating fire in May 2021, when the domaine lost part of its cuverie due to an electrical fault blaze. Miraculously, all wines laying in rest were saved without impact as firefighters fought against the flames, holding back the inevitable until securely moved to a safe zone.
That section of the cuverie was completely destroyed and has since been rebuilt solid as a new symbol of even better things to come, born from knowledge and experience of difficult times and challenging circumstances!”
- Domaine Bruno Colin
“Great to return to this slick operative star of an estate on its continuous rise. Once again, brilliantly handled textual and precise terroir-focused wines here on tasting 2023 vintage barrel and tank samples with Bruno Colin and Antoine Laisney.
Having well established the domaine as a firmly trusted name, rising star Bruno Colin shows no pace of slowing down as the standards and efforts continue to rise. Covering 8.75 hectares of finely tuned vineyards, spread across appellations Puligny-Montrachet, St-Aubin, Santenay, and Dezize-les-Maranges, an impressive array of eight 1er crus in Chassagne-Montrachet stand out as some of the great wines derived from this impeccable estate. Bruno’s success is contributed to creating consistently expressive and alluring wines based on his keen ability and sharp focus to reflect the uniqueness of each great terroir.”
- Domaine Blain-Gagnard
“Quietly tucked behind an unassuming courtyard gate on a narrow village road lays one of the most pure, attractive and elegant of Chassagne producers, Domaine Blain-Gagnard. Minimal intervention is key here in wines which are so refined and fresh that the new oak nuisances are imperceptible.
Always a humbling experience when tasting with the quietly spoken and calming presence of Jean-Marc Blain. We [discussed and tasted] through his pure terroir savoury lined 2023 vintage barrel and tank samples so thoughtfully crafted.”
- Olivier Leflaive
“Remaining true in its resilient commitment to passing on a passion while taking care of others, this impressive family-run wine house with a loyal following continues to carve out an enviable reputation since establishing in 1984. With an impressive array of vineyards encompassing 26 hectares spread across the appellations of Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, and Chassagne-Montrachet, Maison Olivier Leflaive holds an unquestionable enviable reputation with critical acclaim worldwide.
Following the retirement of Cellar Technical Director Franck Grux in 2023, having overseen the team for 35 years, he chose one of Burgundy’s most rising young winemaking talents, Solène Panigai, to be his successor. Working closely alongside Philippe Grillet, Oenologist, through meticulous work, in close contact with the vineyards, grapes and wines, they continuously strive for quality and excellence with precision at every stage on a mission to bolster Maison Olivier Leflaive’s global reputation.”
- Philippe Bouzereau
“Located in a former Cistercian vineyard in the heart of Meursault, the Philippe Bouzereau estate has been working the vines for several generations. Owned by the Bouzereau family since the 17th century, vines are planted on deep, stony soils which are well-drained, where only healthy grapes are the priority focus at peak ripeness during hand harvest.
In addition to family and historical know-how, there is now astute focus for responsible viticulture, mindful of its impact on the environment. Diligently run by brothers Charles and Philippe, their commitment to cultivating vines and expressing the unique terroirs of the Burgundian appellations is remarkable. Vinification procedures have evolved over the years, focusing on each terroir to express the typicality of its vintage.
An immersion in tasting the greatest Burgundian terroirs, from Chassagne-Montrachet to Corton, [at Domaine Philippe Bouzereau we tasted] through splendidly savoury rich, ripe and wonderfully expressive 2023 vintage barrel and tank samples with Charles Bouzereau.”
Related posts: